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Category Archives: Pest control

Essential Oils in the Garden

28 Tuesday Aug 2018

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Essential oil, gardening tips, Herbs, insects, Organic, Pest control

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

companion plants, Essential oil, health, insect repellant, Pest control


OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Essential oils play several roles in the garden. They are a natural pest deterrent and as pests carry disease in the form of bacteria and viruses, the oil’s antibacterial and antiviral properties act as a form of preventative medicine for your garden. Fungi and mould are other problems essential oils can deal with quickly and effectively.
Strong healthy plants resist disease, and essential oils build up the health of plants, an example being that roses love to be in the company of garlic, basil or thyme and you can either plant them around the bush or use their essential oil when watering them. Add 2 drops of each essential oil to your watering can, mix well and water.
Essential oils not only control pests and make your crop stronger, they improve the taste and fragrance of the plant. Ants can be deterred by peppermint. To clear a nest just put 2 neat drops of peppermint oil directly onto the nest. If ants are coming into your house put 1 or 2 drops of oil where they enter. Thyme and lavender oils protect all vegetables and can be used in your watering can.
Of course, certain insects are essential for pollination, including bees, wasps and butterflies, and using essential oils in your garden will attract these useful insects. Bees especially like coriander.
Sprays can be used as insect deterrents, to banish fungi and mildew, or to encourage growth. Use 4 – 6 drops of essential oil in 4 litres of water for spraying onto flowers, fruit and vegetables. Treated with the antifungal essential oils the mould and fungi do not survive very long and simply disappear. Patchouli, Tea Tree and Cinnamon are recommended.
Slugs can be easily deterred using essential oils. They have an acute sense of smell and hate the smell of garlic. Add 1 teaspoon of oil to your watering can, mix well and water the area where the slugs and snails are causing damage.

NATURAL PEST REPELLANTS
Insect Essential Oil
Ants – peppermint, garlic, citronella
Aphids – peppermint, cedarwood, hyssop
Black Fly – lavender, tagetes
Caterpillars – peppermint
Fleas – lemongrass, citronella, lavender
Flies – lavender, citronella, peppermint, basil
Gnats – citronella, patchouli
Lice – peppermint, cedarwood
Mosquitoes – lavender, citronella, lemongrass
Slugs – garlic, cedar wood, pine
Snails – cedarwood, pine, garlic, hyssop
Ticks – thyme, citronella, sage
Weevils – sandalwood, citronella, sage

GOOD COMPANIONS
Vegetable Essential Oil
Asparagus basil
Green beans lavender, basil
Beetroot marjoram
Broccoli basil, thyme
Cabbage peppermint, sage, thyme
Cauliflower thyme
Celery geranium
Cucumber sage
Leeks hyssop
Lettuce tagetes
Onions chamomile
Peas geranium
Potatoes basil, sage
Tomatoes basil

Butternut grown from scraps

11 Tuesday Mar 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in compost, earthworms, Flowers, Gardens, Growing, Organic, Pest control

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

butternut, Cape Porcupine, earthworms, Flowers, food, home grown, organic, plants, pollination, Red Wriggler, vegetable garden, Vegetables from scraps


Butternut

A few months ago I conditioned my Grow Zone with lashings of Worm Compost. As usual I had the normal tomato and Paw Paw seeds spout, which I weeded out, as I had enough already. These sprouts may also be transplanted into more suitable locations, to grow into mature plants. I had this butternut which sprouted and I moved it.It soon started growing lushly. I started to notice that all the female flowers just dropped off. So I when I noticed a female flower open, I would pollinate it from a male flower by hand. I managed to successfully pollinate 2 flowers.  This is the result. This butternut weighs in 1,1 kg. I have harvested it a little early because  Our resident Cape Porcupine (Mrs Schnoof) is finding it very hard to resist. She is gnawing away at my grow zone.

Garden pests are they friend or foe ?

23 Thursday Jan 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Green tips, Organic, Pest control

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

environment, flowering plants, gardening, green tips, natural predators, nature, organic, Pest control


OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

GARDEN PESTS: FRIEND OR FOE?

Creating and nurturing a garden in order to make it a place that birds will want to visit adds new purpose to gardening. The single most important factor to ensure success in attracting birds to your garden is to provide an abundant and varied supply of insects that are included in their diet.

If birds and humans could communicate, they would surely disagree on what constitutes a pest and what is food! For many gardeners the only good insect is a dead insect but, before you spray, be aware that those offending bugs may be food to the birds and their chicks.

As most of the so-called garden pests are included in the diet of birds, non-chemical solutions to problem areas should be used. The ideal pest control strategy is to rely on natural predators such as ladybirds and praying mantises or to remove affected branches or hand-pick off large bugs that can then be destroyed. To sustain a population of predators in your garden, there needs to be a source of food or pests and most plants are able to cope with a small number of pests. A healthy garden will have a sustained balance between predators and prey.

Millions of years ago the ancestors of our flowering plants began using insects as pollinators and in time the shape, colour and fragrance of flowers evolved to attract these pollinators. South Africa currently has at least 80 000 insect species, some of which we deal with below and others that will be included in future posts.

ANTS. There are many different species of ant. There are good ants and bad ants. Some species do considerable damage in both the garden and the house and should be controlled using environmentally friendly methods. Some are carnivorous and will attack and kill various types of insects. Ants and termites are bitter enemies, because the soft bodied termites are easy prey for ants. Most ants are scavengers that feed on plant and animal debris. Ants and aphids have an interesting relationship and some types of ant feed on the secretions of honeydew produced by aphids. The little black ants found in our homes are from Argentina. They run in long, thin traffic streams. They are fierce and drive out our indigenous ants. This has resulted in a serious reduction of our fynbos as some of the local ants play an important role in seed dispersal. Remember, however, that ants are an important link in nature and some should be present in a healthy garden.

APHIDS. These little insects are well-known to most gardeners and are the curse of farmers, rose growers and cultivators of exotic plants. They cluster on young shoots from which they suck the sap. For aphids it is a “woman’s world” as in some species males have never been discovered. It takes four days for an aphid to mature and start producing its own young. Although a jet of soapy water will remove these pests from a stem, remember that they are the staple diet of numerous other creatures such as hover flies, lacewings, ladybirds, thrips, wasps, white-eyes and several other bird species. Inter-planting beds with marigolds and wild garlic will help to keep aphids at bay.

BATS. Of 925 species found worldwide, 53 occur in South Africa. As with birds, some eat fruit and others eat insects. If you provide for birds in your garden, they will inevitably be replaced after sunset by bats. The most frequently encountered bat in Cape Town is the Egyptian fruit bat, which loves the fleshy fruits of Podocarpus latifolius – Real Yellowwood. Bats emit sounds, which bounce back to them enabling them to locate food sources. An insectivorous bat can eat over 1000 mosquitoes in one night. Bats in turn are preyed upon by birds such as Falcons, Gymnogenes and Barn Owls.

BEES. Bees will usually only attack if provoked. Colonies of bees are more dangerous than individuals and, as a protective measure, will sting en masse when in the vicinity of their hives. Researchers have found that certain odours, such as human sweat or freshly mowed lawn, annoy bees. Bees are nature’s confectioners. They take nectar from flowers and, like many other insects, pollinate the plants with pollen that has stuck to their legs and bodies. When a bee stings, it pays with its life and dies after stinging.

BEETLES. There are approximately 350 000 species of beetle worldwide. The larvae of beetles sometimes feed on grasshopper eggs. Perhaps the most appreciated beetle is the ladybird, as their food source consists of aphids and scale insects. Few people realise that fireflies are also beetles. Beetles are generally harmless to humans although blister beetles contain toxins, which can cause blistering when handled. Bright yellow and black beetles are known as CMR beetles. They were named after the Cape Mounted Rifle Brigade, whose uniform colours they resemble. The white larvae of these pests is often found in compost heaps so, check your compost heap, harvest the worms and offer them on the feeding table for insectivorous birds.

CRICKETS. These insects naturally occur in grasslands but in the absence of these have found their way to our lawns. In nature, the population of crickets is controlled by creatures such as Crowned Plovers and Wood Owls but the most environmentally friendly way of eliminating them from your garden is to spray soapy water onto the lawn. It is said that if you count the number of chirps of tree crickets or “thermometer crickets” for six seconds, then add twelve, you will know the air temperature in degrees centigrade.

CUTWORMS. These grey-blackish caterpillars chew through stalks of seedlings just below ground level, after dark. A single female moth may lay as many as 1 000 eggs which will hatch after about a week. A solution is to wedge a circle of cardboard into the soil around each seedling until the plants are large enough to survive attacks. Being biodegradable, the cardboard will eventually rot away. Their natural predators are Hoopoes and certain types of wasps.

EARTHWORMS. These pinkish-brown underground creatures are familiar to most gardeners. They aerate the soil and ingest soil containing organic matter and minerals, and by so doing they assist in making compost. They can consume up to 30% of their body weight daily. Earthworms provide an important food source for many birds.

GRASSHOPPERS AND LOCUSTS. Many will eat plant material, but serve as a valuable food source for many birds such as shrikes, European Bee-eaters and even Spotted Eagle Owls. Elegant grasshoppers are poisonous and thus inedible. Their bright red and black colouring serves to warn predators of this.

MOLES (MOLERATS). In South Africa, the term “mole” is used for both molerats and golden moles. Molerats feed on roots and bulbs and are a genuine problem for gardeners. In nature, they render a valuable service by spreading corms of several indigenous plant species, thus assisting in propagation. Molerats burrow into the soil and raise mounds. This process actually assists gardeners, as the drainage of the soil is greatly improved. Their natural predators are mole snakes, which can reach them in their burrows. However, gardeners have eradicated mole snakes. The only effective way to get rid of moles is not to plant what they like or, alternatively, place bulbs in mesh baskets before planting.

SNAILS AND SLUGS. Most gardeners are familiar with the imported snails and slugs that cause the most damage to plants. These are often the European garden snails, Helix aspersa, which is the same as those you would order in a restaurant! Another import is Cochlicella barbara, with its small ice cream cone shaped shell. The dwarf cannibal snail, Nata dumeticola, feeds mainly on other snails and slugs. Various snails and slugs are important food sources for certain birds. Thrushes break open shells, as do Burchell’s Coucals. A harmless snake, called the common slug-eater, has been eliminated by gardeners, thus contributing to the proliferation of slugs and snails

SNAKES. Snakes are on the top of the hate list of many gardeners. Provided there is enough natural habitat available, snakes will usually stay there instead of your house. Snakes are a source of food for mongooses and eagles, and sometimes the Bokmakierie. All snakes, except egg eaters are carnivorous. You will not be attacked unless you corner or tamper with snakes. As snakes are good indicators of the balance in your garden you should be pleased to find one. Snakes are deaf and detect danger by picking up vibrations in the ground. Although a snake is quick to see any movement, its focusing is poor, so if you stand dead still, it will assume you are another tree.

SPIDERS. Spiders are your very best insecticide. Spiders are an extremely important link in the food chain. Although predators themselves, they are eaten by many birds and their webs are essential material for the nests of a variety of birds, including sunbirds. There are two types of spider – those that live on webs and those that are not web bound. Spider bites are mostly attributed to the sac spider. Remember the old Scottish belief : “If you want to live and thrive, let a spider run alive.”

TWIG WILTERS. These large, elongated, dull brown bugs often have shiny orange markings and emit a repugnant-smelling liquid when threatened. They are usually found on new growth, causing the tips of the plant to wilt and die.

WOODLICE. These oval-shaped, flattish, grey little creatures are not really lice, or even insects, but are crustaceans. They are often found in compost heaps or under logs or bricks. They assist gardeners by eating dead organic matter and turning it into compost. Woodlice do not eat live plants.

Elemental Organic Pest solutions

09 Thursday Jan 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Green tips, Growing, Organic, Pest control

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

environment, gardening, garlic cloves, hot water, liquid paraffin, organic, Pest control, red pepper spray


In keeping with the organic gardening concept, it is always preferable to seek natural solutions to garden problems such as pests and common diseases.. Should you have any ideas to share on this topic please send them to us for passing on to others.

Please also note that dish-washing liquid is called for in most of these ‘recipes’. It serves as a ‘wetter’ enabling the liquid solution to adhere to the plant for maximum effect. The environmentally friendly non-toxic dish-washing liquid is ideal for this purpose. snail

Insect Spray Concentrate

This is an all-purpose natural insecticide.

  • · 3 unpeeled garlic cloves 1 tablespoon dish-washing liquid
  • · 3 teaspoons of liquid paraffin 2 cups of hot water

In a small bowl, crush garlic heads and add paraffin. Leave to stand for 24 hours then add the dish-washing liquid to the mixture.

Sieve the mixture, discard the solid bits and store the liquid in the fridge.

To use: Mix 1 tablespoon of concentrate to 1 liter of water. Spray every 2 weeks to be effective.

Wormwood spray (Artemisia)

This spray is best used against caterpillars.

  • · 1 cup of wormwood leaves 1 teaspoon of dish-washing liquid
  • · 3 litres of water 2 cups of hot water

Simmer wormwood leaves in 3 litres of water for 30 minutes. Stir, strain and leave to cool. Then dissolve the dish-washing liquid in hot water and add to the wormwood water. When cool, spray as required.

Red pepper spray concentrate

This is a good all-purpose insect spray and very effective against caterpillars.

  • · 1 unpeeled onion 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
  • · 1 unpeeled clove of garlic 3 litres water

Chop onion and garlic and combine all ingredients in saucepan. Simmer for 20 minutes. Strain and store the liquid in jars for up to 6 weeks.

To use: Dilute 1 tablespoon of concentrate to 1 liter of water, and add 1 teaspoon of dish-washing liquid.

Comfrey foliar feed

This is a good general purpose liquid manure and may be used on all plants.

  • · 2 plastic buckets Plate and brick
  • · Flower pot that fits inside the bucket Comfrey leaves

Cut holes in the bottom of one of the buckets. Fill the bucket ¾ full with Comfrey leaves and pack down tightly. Put the plate on top of the leaves and weigh down with a brick. Place the flowerpot upside down in the second bucket and place the Comfrey-filled bucket on top of this. After 3 weeks there should be brown liquid in the lower bucket. Bottle the liquid and place the remaining wilted contents of the top bucket on the compost heap.

To use: Dilute 2 tablespoons of the Comfrey foliar feed in 2 litres of water; and add a little dish-washing liquid.

Powdery mildew

An alternative method of controlling powdery mildew is to spray weekly with milk dilute. Milk also acts as a foliar fertilizer and boosts the plant’s immune system.

Dilution: 2 parts milk to 9 parts water. Spray the affected plant weekly for good effect.

Don’t throw that eggshell away

04 Wednesday Dec 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Gardens, Green tips, Health, Pest control, Re-use, Recycle

≈ 10 Comments

Tags

calcium, compost, Egg carton, Egg white, Eggshell, eggshells, Mortar and pestle, Potting soil


egg shells

The next time you use an egg, don’t toss your shells. Eggshells have nearly as many uses as the eggs themselves. Here’s how to get the most from them.

Put them on your face
To restore a youthful glow to your skin, pulverize clean, dried eggshells with a mortar and pestle. Mix the powder with some egg white and spread on your skin. Allow the mixture to dry before washing it off.

Clean your house with them
Ground eggshells make a wonderful (and nontoxic!) abrasive for those tough-to-clean pots, pans, and thermoses. Mix them with a little soapy water for a powerful clean.

Unclog your drains
Keep a few ground eggshells in your kitchen sink strainer. They trap additional solids and when they slowly break down, they will help to naturally clean your pipes on their way out.

Fertilize your garden
Eggshells are rich in calcium and other minerals that help your garden thrive. Crush eggshells into tiny pieces and use them as compost.

Clear up your skin
Drop an eggshell into a small container of apple cider vinegar and let it soak for a couple of days. Dab the mixture on minor skin irritations or on itchy skin.

Start some seedlings
Fill an egg carton with empty, rinsed eggshell halves and poke a hole in each one for drainage. Then add potting soil and one or two seeds to each shell. When the seedlings are big enough for transplanting outside, just crack the shell at the bottom and plant them, shell and all. It’s biodegradable!

Fortify your pet
Dry eggshells in a 250-degree over for 30 minutes. Then put them in a plastic zipper bag, seal it, and crush the shells with a rolling pin until they are a fine powder. Put this into your dog’s food as a great calcium supplement to help its bones and teeth.

Scare away slugs
Crush eggshells and scatter them around your vegetables and flowers to fend off hungry herbivores, such as slugs, snails, and cutworms without using toxic pesticides. The smell of eggs will also deter deer.

Sweeten your coffee
Add some crushed eggshells to ground coffee before brewing it to make it taste less bitter. When you’re done, toss the grounds and shells on your compost heap!

egg shells with lettuce

Source :

15 surprising uses for eggshells

 

Related articles
  • Eggshell Flowerpots (prescottnannies.wordpress.com)

The productive garden

03 Thursday Oct 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Flowers, Gardens, Pest control, Re-use

≈ 14 Comments

Tags

Artichoke, beans, companion planting, espalier, Flowers, food, garden, gardening, gourd, health, Heligan, heritage varieties, home, home grown, kale, organic, pear, Personal, plant, pumpkin, saving seed, The Lost gardens of Heligan, Victorian garden, Zinnia


The Productive Gardens at Heligan have been restored to reflect the workings of a Victorian garden before the First World War. Heligan remains true to this period in the cropping plan, growing only heritage varieties and cultivating the soil by hand. The garden is fully productive throughout the year and there is a constant supply of produce ready for harvest.

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The pears are grown espaliered  along the boundary walls

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These beans are being saved for seed.

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The Artichokes in their final Summer flush.

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Pumpkins ready for harvest.

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Many different types of Kale

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The garden planting plan.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Zinnias grown for companion planting.  These old-time plants attract a wide range of beneficial pollinator insects, including endangered bumblebees; attract a number of song birds and hummingbirds, and zinnias are relatively easy to grow and maintain. Their usefulness goes beyond wildlife and the garden, they are also excellent cut flowers for the home or for sale.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

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Essential Oil natural pest repellents

01 Monday Jul 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Aromatherapy, gardening tips, insects, Organic, Pest control

≈ 17 Comments

Tags

Aromatherapy, Cedarwood, Cymbopogon, gardening, garlic, Geranium, green tips, Lavender, Peppermint, rosemary, Thyme


ESSENTIAL OIL NATURAL PEST REPELLENTS
Insect Essential Oil
Ants – peppermint, garlic, citronella
Aphids – peppermint, cedarwood, hyssop
Black Fly – lavender, tagetes
Caterpillars – peppermint
Fleas – lemongrass, citronella, lavender
Flies – lavender, citronella, peppermint, basil
Gnats – citronella, patchouli
Lice – peppermint, cedarwood
Mosquitoes – lavender, citronella, lemongrass
Slugs – garlic, cedar wood, pine
Snails – cedarwood, pine, garlic, hyssop
Ticks – thyme, citronella, sage
Weevils – sandalwood, citronella, sage

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

GOOD COMPANIONS
Vegetable Essential Oil
Asparagus basil
Green beans lavender, basil
Beetroot marjoram
Broccoli basil, thyme
Cabbage peppermint, sage, thyme
Cauliflower thyme
Celery geranium
Cucumber sage
Leeks hyssop
Lettuce tagetes
Onions chamomile
Peas geranium
Potatoes basil, sage
Tomatoes basil

-33.982832 18.469360

Don’t throw that eggshell away

28 Monday Jan 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Gardens, Green tips, Health, Pest control, Re-use, Recycle

≈ 13 Comments

Tags

Apple Cider Vinegar, calcium, compost, egg shells, Egg white, Eggshell, environment, gardening, green tips, home grown, household tips, Mortar and pestle, nature, organic, Pest control, Potting soil, Re-use, recycle, skin


egg shells

The next time you use an egg, don’t toss your shells. Eggshells have nearly as many uses as the eggs themselves. Here’s how to get the most from them.

Put them on your face
To restore a youthful glow to your skin, pulverize clean, dried eggshells with a mortar and pestle. Mix the powder with some egg white and spread on your skin. Allow the mixture to dry before washing it off.

Clean your house with them
Ground eggshells make a wonderful (and nontoxic!) abrasive for those tough-to-clean pots, pans, and thermoses. Mix them with a little soapy water for a powerful clean.

Unclog your drains
Keep a few ground eggshells in your kitchen sink strainer. They trap additional solids and when they slowly break down, they will help to naturally clean your pipes on their way out.

Fertilize your garden
Eggshells are rich in calcium and other minerals that help your garden thrive. Crush eggshells into tiny pieces and use them as compost.

Clear up your skin
Drop an eggshell into a small container of apple cider vinegar and let it soak for a couple of days. Dab the mixture on minor skin irritations or on itchy skin.

Start some seedlings
Fill an egg carton with empty, rinsed eggshell halves and poke a hole in each one for drainage. Then add potting soil and one or two seeds to each shell. When the seedlings are big enough for transplanting outside, just crack the shell at the bottom and plant them, shell and all. It’s biodegradable!

Fortify your pet
Dry eggshells in a 250-degree over for 30 minutes. Then put them in a plastic zipper bag, seal it, and crush the shells with a rolling pin until they are a fine powder. Put this into your dog’s food as a great calcium supplement to help its bones and teeth.

Scare away slugs
Crush eggshells and scatter them around your vegetables and flowers to fend off hungry herbivores, such as slugs, snails, and cutworms without using toxic pesticides. The smell of eggs will also deter deer.

Sweeten your coffee
Add some crushed eggshells to ground coffee before brewing it to make it taste less bitter. When you’re done, toss the grounds and shells on your compost heap!

egg shells with lettuce

 

Related articles :

15 surprising uses for eggshells

 

Companion planting

12 Saturday Jan 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Green tips, Growing, Herbs, Organic, Pest control

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

companion planting, food, gardening, herbs, home grown, nature, organic, Pest control, plants, vegetables


tomato

 

COMPANION PLANTING

 

Combining and mixing crops has the effect of reducing damage from pests and diseases. Marigolds are particularly useful and should be present in every vegetable garden. They are most effective when planted alongside pathways. When you brush up against them they release a pungent, pest-confusing smell. Similarly, some annual herbs such as chervil, dill and summer savoury are beneficial when grown amongst crops as their strong scent hides the plants from pests. The scents of rosemary, thyme, sage, chives, hyssop and lavender are effective pest deterrents and their flowers attract predators and pollinators. These herbs should be confined to the edges of vegetable plots. Garlic and chives are often grown under roses to prevent fungal and bacterial attacks. Some plants, such as the Nicotiana Sylvestris, are grown as sacrificials to attract pests away from the main planting. Also referred to as trap plants, these have sticky stems and leaves and are attractive to white fly and thrips.

 

COMPANION GUIDE FOR VEGETABLE CROPS
VEGETABLE DOES WELL WITH … DOES BADLY WITH …
Beans (broad) Carrots, celery, potatoes, summer savoury, baby marrows and most herbs Onions and garlic
Beans (runner) Sweet corn and summer savoury Beetroot and chard
Beetroot Beans, onions, garlic, parsnips Runner beans
Cabbage French beans, beetroot, chard, celery, dill nasturtium, onions, garlic, peas, potatoes Runner beans, strawberries
Carrots Chives, leeks, lettuce, onions, garlic, peas, tomatoes Dill
Celery Cabbage, beans, leeks, tomatoes
Marrows Beans, nasturtium, peas, sweet corn Potatoes
Leeks Carrots, celery, onions
Lettuce Carrots, cabbage, radish, strawberries, chervil
Onions, Garlic Beetroot, chard, lettuce, strawberries, summer savoury, tomatoes Beans, peas
Peas Beans, carrots, sweet corn, turnips, potatoes Onions, garlic
Potatoes Beans, cabbage, peas, sweet corn Tomatoes, marrows
Sweet corn Beans, cabbage, peas, potatoes Sunflowers
Sweet & Chilli Peppers Basil Radishes
Sunflowers Cabbage, nasturtiums Potatoes, beans, grass
Tomatoes Asparagus, basil, carrots, cabbage, onions, garlic, parsley Potatoes
Turnips, Swedes Peas

The nature of essential oils

10 Thursday Jan 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Aromatherapy, Green tips, Health, Organic, Pest control

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Aromatherapy, facial, gardening, garlic, hair care, health, home grown, Inhalation, massage, massage essential oils, nature, organic, slugs, snails


bust

What is aromatherapy?
It is a therapy that applies the essential oils of various aromatic plants, shrubs and trees. Oils extracted from the plants can be used to treat both medical and psychological conditions, as cosmetics or merely to promote a sense of pleasure and wellbeing. Certain essential oils may be used to ease aching muscles or relax a tired body. These are found in ‘conventional’ soaps, bath oils, skin creams and lotions.

History
The practice of Aromatherapy may be traced back to ancient Greeks, Romans, Chinese, Egyptians, Arabs, Persians and the aboriginal people of Australia, India and Africa where essential oils were used as medicines, perfumes and incense and for embalming.

The nature of essential oils
Essential oils are extractions from living plants and trees. The oil yields from different parts of plants – flowers (lavender), leaves (rosemary), seeds (vanilla), roots (ginger) or bark (sandalwood). Oils can also be extracted from aromatic grasses such as lemongrass, and three different oils can be extracted from citrus fruit trees – the flowers, the leaves and the skin. In some plants there are microscopic quantities of oil, such as jasmine, and others are more generous. Similarly, some oils are easy to extract whereas others, such as jasmine, yields with reluctance. For every ounce of oil, one thousand times that weight of flowers must be used. Essential oils are concentrated and the vast majority can irritate the skin when used neat. The exceptions are lavender and tea tree.

Methods of using essential oils
Massage – essential oils used for massage should be diluted with base oil, such as almond, avocado, jojoba, wheat germ, either singularly or blended.
Inhalation – steam inhalation is used for respiratory complaints and dry inhalation is beneficial for asthmatics. Alternatively, simply place a few drops on your pillow – eucalyptus for blocked noses, or lavender for restful sleep.
Steam facial – particularly good for skin prone to oiliness.
Bathing – add a few drops of oil to your bath water. Mix essential oils with base oil before adding to your bath and be aware that prolonged use of oils could damage the surface of your bath. Use rosemary to revitalise or chamomile to induce a good night’s sleep. Do not use soap, shampoo, and bath-oils in an aromatic bath.
Sitz Baths – beneficial in the treatment of menstrual disorders, thrush, cystitis, hemorrhoids and constipation. Tee tree oil is particularly beneficial in the treatment of thrush.
Compresses – cold compresses are beneficial for treating headaches, fever, and pain from bruising or muscle strain and hot compresses can be used to treat boils.
Mouthwashes – can be used to treat gum infection, bad breath, oral thrush and mouth ulcers. The oil should be diluted in a small amount of alcohol, vodka is generally recommended. Mouthwashes should never be swallowed.
Hair care – tea tree oil is useful for dandruff and rosemary is used to condition and stimulate hair growth. Dilute in a carrier oil, rub well into the scalp, wrap a towel around the head and leave for an hour or so, wash as normal.
Vaporisers, diffusers, room spray, burners – add fragrance to a room. Some oils can be used to fumigate or disinfect and prevent the spread of disease.

EXCERPTS FROM NATURAL LIVING’S GUIDE TO USING ESSENTIAL OILS IN THE GARDEN
Essential oils play several roles in the garden. They are a natural pest deterrent and as pests carry disease in the form of bacteria and viruses, the oil’s antibacterial and antiviral properties act as a form of preventative medicine for your garden. Fungi and mould are other problems essential oils can deal with quickly and effectively.
Strong healthy plants resist disease, and essential oils build up the health of plants, an example being that roses love to be in the company of garlic, basil or thyme and you can either plant them around the bush or use their essential oil when watering them. Add 2 drops of each essential oil to your watering can, mix well and water.
Essential oils not only control pests and make your crop stronger, they improve the taste and fragrance of the plant. Ants can be deterred by peppermint. To clear a nest just put 2 neat drops of peppermint oil directly onto the nest. If ants are coming into your house put 1 or 2 drops of oil where they enter. Thyme and lavender oils protect all vegetables and can be used in your watering can.
Of course, certain insects are essential for pollination, including bees, wasps and butterflies, and using essential oils in your garden will attract these useful insects. Bees especially like coriander.
Sprays can be used as insect deterrents, to banish fungi and mildew, or to encourage growth. Use 4 – 6 drops of essential oil in 4 litres of water for spraying onto flowers, fruit and vegetables. Treated with the antifungal essential oils the mould and fungi do not survive very long and simply disappear. Patchouli, Tea Tree and Cinnamon are recommended.
Slugs can be easily deterred using essential oils. They have an acute sense of smell and hate the smell of garlic. Add 1 teaspoon of oil to your watering can, mix well and water the area where the slugs and snails are causing damage.

NATURAL PEST REPELLANTS
Insect Essential Oil
Ants – peppermint, garlic, citronella
Aphids – peppermint, cedarwood, hyssop
Black Fly – lavender, tagetes
Caterpillars – peppermint
Fleas – lemongrass, citronella, lavender
Flies – lavender, citronella, peppermint, basil
Gnats – citronella, patchouli
Lice – peppermint, cedarwood
Mosquitoes – lavender, citronella, lemongrass
Slugs – garlic, cedar wood, pine
Snails – cedarwood, pine, garlic, hyssop
Ticks – thyme, citronella, sage
Weevils – sandalwood, citronella, sage

GOOD COMPANIONS
Vegetable Essential Oil
Asparagus basil
Green beans lavender, basil
Beetroot marjoram
Broccoli basil, thyme
Cabbage peppermint, sage, thyme
Cauliflower thyme
Celery geranium
Cucumber sage
Leeks hyssop
Lettuce tagetes
Onions chamomile
Peas geranium
Potatoes basil, sage
Tomatoes basil

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