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Tag Archives: green tips

Lemongrass

09 Thursday Jun 2016

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Gardens, Green tips, Growing, Health, Herbs, Honey Bee, Organic, Perennials

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Bee, food, garden, green tips, health, honey bee, Insects, Intercropping, Lemongrass, medicinal herb, organic, tea, Whitefly


IMG_20160609_110518_edit

Sweet Pickled Lemongrass

Lemongrass (Cymbopogon Citratus) , are commonly cultivated as culinary and medicinal herbs because of their scent, resembling that of lemons.

Lemongrass is usually planted in home gardens to ward off insects such as whitefly adults. Its cultivation enables growing some vegetables (e.g. tomatoes and broccoli) without applying pesticides. Intercropping should include physical barriers, for citronella roots can take over the field.

Lemongrass is widely used as a culinary herb in Asian cuisine and also as medicinal herb in India. It has a subtle citrus flavor and can be dried and powdered, or used fresh. It is commonly used in teas, soups, and curries. It is also suitable for use with poultry, fish, beef, and seafood. It is often used as a tea in African countries such as Togo and the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Latin American countries such as Mexico. Lemongrass oil is used as a pesticide and a preservative. Research shows that lemongrass oil has antifungal properties. Despite its ability to repel some insects, such as mosquitoes, its oil is commonly used as a “lure” to attract honey bees. “Lemongrass works conveniently as well as the pheromone created by the honeybee’s Nasonov gland, also known as attractant pheromones. Because of this, lemongrass oil can be used as a lure when trapping swarms or attempting to draw the attention of hived bees.

Health Benefits of Lemongrass Essential Oil

Analgesic, Antidepressant, Antimicrobial and Antibacterial, Anti-pyretic, Antiseptic, Astringent, Carminative, Deodorant, Diuretic, Febrifuge, Fungicidal, Galactogogue, Insecticidaland Nervine.

A Few Words of Caution: It is likely to irritate the skin and produce other types of irritations too. Hence it should be avoided during pregnancy, and kept away from the eyes.

 

Image

Fuchsia Gardening tip

22 Monday Sep 2014

Tags

Flowers, Fuchsia, garden, green tips, plants


Posted by Brigid Jackson | Filed under Flowers, gardening tips, Green tips, Growing

≈ Leave a comment

Coffee grinds in the garden

15 Saturday Feb 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in gardening tips, Re-use, Recycle

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

coffee grinds, coffee grounds, compost bin, garden pests, gardening, green tips, organic, reuse


If you make a daily pot of coffee, you have a fabulous source of organic matter right at your fingertips. In compost jargon, coffee grounds are a “green,” meaning an item that is rich in nitrogen (yes, I know coffee grounds are brown. In your compost, they’re green. Trust me.) Coffee grounds are approximately 1.45% nitrogen. They also contain magnesium, calcium, potassium, and other trace minerals.

coffee

There are several ways you can put used coffee grounds to work in your garden:

  • Put coffee grounds in your compost bin. As noted above, they are a valuable source of nitrogen.
  • Add grounds directly to the soil in your garden. You can scratch it into the top couple inches of soil, or just sprinkle the grounds on top and leave it alone.
  • Create a slug and snail barrier. Coffee grounds are both abrasive and acidic, so a barrier of grounds placed near slug-prone plants may just save them from these garden pests.
  • Make coffee ground “tea.” Add two cups of used coffee grounds to a five-gallon bucket of water. Let the “tea” steep for a few hours or overnight. You can use this concoction as a liquid fertilizer for garden and container plants. It also makes a great foliar feed.
  • Add coffee grounds to your worm bin. Worms love coffee grounds! Add some to your worm bin every week or so. Just don’t add too many at once, because the acidity could bother your worms. A cup or so of grounds per week for a small worm bin is perfect.
  • Organic Gardening

Using Epsom salts in the garden

05 Wednesday Feb 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in ecology, gardening tips

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

England, Epsom, Epsom Salt, epsom salts, Flowers, food, gardening, green tips, Magnesium, Magnesium sulfate, natural emollient, plant, plants, Soil, water


epsom_salts-300x225

Are the leaves on your plants turning yellow ? Do you want more fruit and flowers?

These problems may be the result of a lack of magnesium in your soil, which prohibits roots from absorbing much-needed nutrients. Give your foliage and flowers a boost by using Epsom salt. Studies show that magnesium and sulfur, two major components of Epsom salt, may help plants grow greener with higher yields and more blooms.

This natural mineral, discovered in the well water of Epsom, England, has been used for hundreds of years, not only to fertilize plants but to treat a range of human and animal ailments. When magnesium sulfate is absorbed through the skin, such as in a bath, it draws toxins from the body, sedates the nervous system, reduces swelling, relaxes muscles, is a natural emollient, exfoliater, and much more.

Lawns: Apply three pounds for every 1,250 square feet with a spreader or dilute in water and apply with a sprayer.

Houseplants: Use two tablespoons per gallon of water; feed plants monthly.

Tomatoes and Peppers: Use one tablespoon per foot of plant height per plant; apply every two weeks to keep the leaves from yellowing.

Roses: Use one tablespoon per foot of plant height per plant; apply every two weeks. Also scratch 1/2 cup into soil at base to encourage flowering canes and healthy new basal cane growth. Soak unplanted bushes in one cup of Epsom Salt per gallon of water to help roots recover. Add one tablespoon of Epsom Salt to each hole at planting time.

Shrubs (evergreens, azaleas, rhododendron): Use one tablespoon per nine square feet. Apply over root zone every 2-4 weeks.

Trees: Apply two tablespoons per nine square feet. Apply over the root zone 3 times annually.

Garden Startup: Sprinkle one cup per 100 square feet. Mix into soil before planting.

Flowering plants: Put one tablespoon of Epsom Salt into one gallon of water. This mixture helps to force blooms.

Backyarddiva

Growing Ginger from scraps

27 Monday Jan 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in gardening tips, Green tips, Perennials, Re-use

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

food, ginger, ginger root, green tips, health, home grown, organic, plants, scraps, Zingiber officinale


Ginger grown from scaps

Ginger grown from scraps

Today I finally planted my Ginger” grown from scraps” into the ground.

Ginger (Zingiber officinale) is easy to grow and makes for a great project with kids. And with its attractive foliage, this plant will add beauty to your home and garden, as well. Just pick up a root from your grocery store’s produce section and get growing!

Because ginger root tubers grow right near the soil surface, don’t bury them when you transplant them to your garden.

Simply lay the ginger root on the top of the potting soil to “plant” it.

Pull the roots from the ground and allow them to dry in the open air before removing the stalks and harvesting.

Ginger root is sold in a clump that’s often called a “hand.” You’ll want to choose a hand that’s fresh and firm with as many “fingers” as possible. To get as many plants as you can, cut or break the fingers off the main root. Each section with a growing tip will become a plant. Be sure to allow any cut surfaces to dry before planting them in moist soil.

Planting is easy as pie: Simply pick a pot that’s at least twice the diameter as the length of your root section. Fill it ¾ full with standard potting soil, and place the small root sections on the soil surface. Water it well. Your plant will survive dry spells, but to get the most consistent growth, keep it damp at all times. Place your ginger pot in a spot where it’ll stay warm. There’s no need to find a sunny spot on your windowsill. At this stage, your ginger actually grows better without direct sunshine. Before you know it, you’ll see sprouts.

Growing Ginger 

The Amazing frozen Lemon

27 Monday Jan 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Green tips, Health, Re-use, Recycle, Upcycle

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

cancer, Cell (biology), Chemotherapy, Citrus, Doxorubicin, food, freezer section, garden, green tips, grow your own, health, home grown, Lemon, Lemonade, Malignancy, organic, plant, vegan, vegetarian


amazing lemon

Amazing Frozen **Lemon**

Many professionals in restaurants and eateries are using or consuming the entire lemon and nothing is wasted.

How can you use the whole lemon without waste?

Simple.. place the lemon in the freezer section of your
refrigerator. Once the lemon is frozen, get your grater, and
shred the whole lemon (no need to peel it)and sprinkle it on
top of your foods.

Sprinkle it to your whisky, wine, vegetable salad, ice
cream, soup, noodles,spaghetti sauce, rice, sushi, fish
dishes.

All of the foods will unexpectedly have a wonderful taste,
something that you may have never tasted before. Most likely
, you only think of lemon juice and vitamin C. Not anymore.

Now that you’ve learned this lemon secret, you can use
lemon even in instant cup noodles.

What’s the major advantage of using the whole lemon other
than preventing waste and adding new taste to your dishes?

Well, you see lemon peels contain as much as 5 to 10 times
more vitamins than the lemon juice itself. And yes, that’s
what you’ve been wasting.

But from now on, by following this simple procedure of
freezing the whole lemon, then grating it on top of your
dishes, you can consume all of those nutrients and get even
healthier.

It’s also good that lemon peels are health rejuvenators in
eradicating toxic elements in the body.

So place your lemon in your freezer, and then grate it on
your meal every day. It is a key to make your foods tastier
and you get to live healthier and longer! That’s the lemon
secret! Better late than NEVER! The surprising benefits of
lemon!

Lemon (Citrus) is a miraculous product to kill cancer
cells. It is 10,000 times stronger than chemotherapy.

Why do we not know about that? Because there are
laboratories interested in making a synthetic version that
will bring them huge profits.

You can now help a friend in need by letting him/her know
that lemon juice is beneficial in preventing the disease.
Its taste is pleasant and it does not produce the horrific
effects of chemotherapy.

How many people will die while this closely guarded secret
is kept, so as not to jeopardize the beneficial
multimillionaires large corporations?

As you know, the lemon tree is known for its varieties of
lemons and limes.

You can eat the fruit in different ways: you can eat the
pulp, juice press, prepare drinks, sorbets, pastries, etc…
It is credited with many virtues, but the most interesting
is the effect it produces on cysts and tumors.

This plant is a proven remedy against cancers of all types.
Some say it is very useful in all variants of cancer. It is
considered also as an anti microbial spectrum against
bacterial infections and fungi, effective against internal
parasites and worms, it regulates blood pressure which is
too high and an antidepressant, combats stress and nervous
disorders.
The source of this information is fascinating: it comes
from one of the largest drug manufacturers in the world,
says that after more than 20 laboratory tests since 1970,
the extracts revealed that It destroys the malignant cells
in 12 cancers, including colon, breast, prostate, lung and
pancreas…
The compounds of this tree showed 10,000 times better than
the product Adriamycin, a drug normally used
chemotherapeutic in the world, slowing the growth of cancer
cells.

And what is even more astonishing: this type of therapy
with lemon extract only destroys malignant cancer cells and
it does not affect healthy cells.

wilcraftingwednesday

This post was shared on Wild-crafting Wednesday 

Garden pests are they friend or foe ?

23 Thursday Jan 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Green tips, Organic, Pest control

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

environment, flowering plants, gardening, green tips, natural predators, nature, organic, Pest control


OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

GARDEN PESTS: FRIEND OR FOE?

Creating and nurturing a garden in order to make it a place that birds will want to visit adds new purpose to gardening. The single most important factor to ensure success in attracting birds to your garden is to provide an abundant and varied supply of insects that are included in their diet.

If birds and humans could communicate, they would surely disagree on what constitutes a pest and what is food! For many gardeners the only good insect is a dead insect but, before you spray, be aware that those offending bugs may be food to the birds and their chicks.

As most of the so-called garden pests are included in the diet of birds, non-chemical solutions to problem areas should be used. The ideal pest control strategy is to rely on natural predators such as ladybirds and praying mantises or to remove affected branches or hand-pick off large bugs that can then be destroyed. To sustain a population of predators in your garden, there needs to be a source of food or pests and most plants are able to cope with a small number of pests. A healthy garden will have a sustained balance between predators and prey.

Millions of years ago the ancestors of our flowering plants began using insects as pollinators and in time the shape, colour and fragrance of flowers evolved to attract these pollinators. South Africa currently has at least 80 000 insect species, some of which we deal with below and others that will be included in future posts.

ANTS. There are many different species of ant. There are good ants and bad ants. Some species do considerable damage in both the garden and the house and should be controlled using environmentally friendly methods. Some are carnivorous and will attack and kill various types of insects. Ants and termites are bitter enemies, because the soft bodied termites are easy prey for ants. Most ants are scavengers that feed on plant and animal debris. Ants and aphids have an interesting relationship and some types of ant feed on the secretions of honeydew produced by aphids. The little black ants found in our homes are from Argentina. They run in long, thin traffic streams. They are fierce and drive out our indigenous ants. This has resulted in a serious reduction of our fynbos as some of the local ants play an important role in seed dispersal. Remember, however, that ants are an important link in nature and some should be present in a healthy garden.

APHIDS. These little insects are well-known to most gardeners and are the curse of farmers, rose growers and cultivators of exotic plants. They cluster on young shoots from which they suck the sap. For aphids it is a “woman’s world” as in some species males have never been discovered. It takes four days for an aphid to mature and start producing its own young. Although a jet of soapy water will remove these pests from a stem, remember that they are the staple diet of numerous other creatures such as hover flies, lacewings, ladybirds, thrips, wasps, white-eyes and several other bird species. Inter-planting beds with marigolds and wild garlic will help to keep aphids at bay.

BATS. Of 925 species found worldwide, 53 occur in South Africa. As with birds, some eat fruit and others eat insects. If you provide for birds in your garden, they will inevitably be replaced after sunset by bats. The most frequently encountered bat in Cape Town is the Egyptian fruit bat, which loves the fleshy fruits of Podocarpus latifolius – Real Yellowwood. Bats emit sounds, which bounce back to them enabling them to locate food sources. An insectivorous bat can eat over 1000 mosquitoes in one night. Bats in turn are preyed upon by birds such as Falcons, Gymnogenes and Barn Owls.

BEES. Bees will usually only attack if provoked. Colonies of bees are more dangerous than individuals and, as a protective measure, will sting en masse when in the vicinity of their hives. Researchers have found that certain odours, such as human sweat or freshly mowed lawn, annoy bees. Bees are nature’s confectioners. They take nectar from flowers and, like many other insects, pollinate the plants with pollen that has stuck to their legs and bodies. When a bee stings, it pays with its life and dies after stinging.

BEETLES. There are approximately 350 000 species of beetle worldwide. The larvae of beetles sometimes feed on grasshopper eggs. Perhaps the most appreciated beetle is the ladybird, as their food source consists of aphids and scale insects. Few people realise that fireflies are also beetles. Beetles are generally harmless to humans although blister beetles contain toxins, which can cause blistering when handled. Bright yellow and black beetles are known as CMR beetles. They were named after the Cape Mounted Rifle Brigade, whose uniform colours they resemble. The white larvae of these pests is often found in compost heaps so, check your compost heap, harvest the worms and offer them on the feeding table for insectivorous birds.

CRICKETS. These insects naturally occur in grasslands but in the absence of these have found their way to our lawns. In nature, the population of crickets is controlled by creatures such as Crowned Plovers and Wood Owls but the most environmentally friendly way of eliminating them from your garden is to spray soapy water onto the lawn. It is said that if you count the number of chirps of tree crickets or “thermometer crickets” for six seconds, then add twelve, you will know the air temperature in degrees centigrade.

CUTWORMS. These grey-blackish caterpillars chew through stalks of seedlings just below ground level, after dark. A single female moth may lay as many as 1 000 eggs which will hatch after about a week. A solution is to wedge a circle of cardboard into the soil around each seedling until the plants are large enough to survive attacks. Being biodegradable, the cardboard will eventually rot away. Their natural predators are Hoopoes and certain types of wasps.

EARTHWORMS. These pinkish-brown underground creatures are familiar to most gardeners. They aerate the soil and ingest soil containing organic matter and minerals, and by so doing they assist in making compost. They can consume up to 30% of their body weight daily. Earthworms provide an important food source for many birds.

GRASSHOPPERS AND LOCUSTS. Many will eat plant material, but serve as a valuable food source for many birds such as shrikes, European Bee-eaters and even Spotted Eagle Owls. Elegant grasshoppers are poisonous and thus inedible. Their bright red and black colouring serves to warn predators of this.

MOLES (MOLERATS). In South Africa, the term “mole” is used for both molerats and golden moles. Molerats feed on roots and bulbs and are a genuine problem for gardeners. In nature, they render a valuable service by spreading corms of several indigenous plant species, thus assisting in propagation. Molerats burrow into the soil and raise mounds. This process actually assists gardeners, as the drainage of the soil is greatly improved. Their natural predators are mole snakes, which can reach them in their burrows. However, gardeners have eradicated mole snakes. The only effective way to get rid of moles is not to plant what they like or, alternatively, place bulbs in mesh baskets before planting.

SNAILS AND SLUGS. Most gardeners are familiar with the imported snails and slugs that cause the most damage to plants. These are often the European garden snails, Helix aspersa, which is the same as those you would order in a restaurant! Another import is Cochlicella barbara, with its small ice cream cone shaped shell. The dwarf cannibal snail, Nata dumeticola, feeds mainly on other snails and slugs. Various snails and slugs are important food sources for certain birds. Thrushes break open shells, as do Burchell’s Coucals. A harmless snake, called the common slug-eater, has been eliminated by gardeners, thus contributing to the proliferation of slugs and snails

SNAKES. Snakes are on the top of the hate list of many gardeners. Provided there is enough natural habitat available, snakes will usually stay there instead of your house. Snakes are a source of food for mongooses and eagles, and sometimes the Bokmakierie. All snakes, except egg eaters are carnivorous. You will not be attacked unless you corner or tamper with snakes. As snakes are good indicators of the balance in your garden you should be pleased to find one. Snakes are deaf and detect danger by picking up vibrations in the ground. Although a snake is quick to see any movement, its focusing is poor, so if you stand dead still, it will assume you are another tree.

SPIDERS. Spiders are your very best insecticide. Spiders are an extremely important link in the food chain. Although predators themselves, they are eaten by many birds and their webs are essential material for the nests of a variety of birds, including sunbirds. There are two types of spider – those that live on webs and those that are not web bound. Spider bites are mostly attributed to the sac spider. Remember the old Scottish belief : “If you want to live and thrive, let a spider run alive.”

TWIG WILTERS. These large, elongated, dull brown bugs often have shiny orange markings and emit a repugnant-smelling liquid when threatened. They are usually found on new growth, causing the tips of the plant to wilt and die.

WOODLICE. These oval-shaped, flattish, grey little creatures are not really lice, or even insects, but are crustaceans. They are often found in compost heaps or under logs or bricks. They assist gardeners by eating dead organic matter and turning it into compost. Woodlice do not eat live plants.

Growing Sweet Potato from scraps

14 Tuesday Jan 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in gardening tips, Growing, Organic, Perennials, Re-use

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

food, garden, green tips, home grown, organic, recycle, sweet potatoes, vegetables


Sweet Potato

Sweet Potato

Growing your own Sweet Potatoes is really easy.

Cut a cube of your sweet potato about 5 cm x 5 cm.

Fill a large container with potting soil and mix in worm compost. (Placing stone ship in the bottom to ensure drainage.)

Plant your sweet potato piece in the center about 5 cm in-depth.

Water well until water runs out of the pot, making sure all the soil is thoroughly wet. Do this every day. In a short period of time you will see vine growth.

After about 3 months, start feeling around in the soil for new potatoes and harvest as required.

This Sweet Potato has been in the same pot now for 3 years and has provided a great deal of Sweet potatoes.

It also becomes quite a talking point, when I show my guests a new potato pulled from the ground.

 

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Seed Saving

02 Thursday Jan 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in gardening tips

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

food, gardening, green tips, Heirloom plant, home grown, Kitchen garden, organic, plants, pollination, Seed, seed saving, Western Cape


Saving for Seed

Saving for Seed

It is now just after mid Summer here in the Western Cape. The temperatures are soaring and the South Easter is taking up what little moisture there is left in the soil.

My vegetable garden has literally bolted in this weather. Now it is time to prepare to save seed for next year’s bounty.

Coriander
Coriander
Carrot
Carrot
Poppies
Poppies
Fennel
Fennel
Giant Leeks
Giant Leeks
Giant Leeks
Giant Leeks
Buds on Giant Leeks
Buds on Giant Leeks
Calendula
Calendula

 

Only seeds from open-pollinated, not hybrid, plants will produce the same crop next year. (The packet that the seeds came from will tell you whether the variety is open-pollinated or hybrid.) And, except for tomatoes, the plants shouldn’t be cross-pollinated by insects (which would happen if several varieties grew in the same area). Such saved seeds might grow into something that resembles the parent, or something tough and tasteless.

Tomatoes are self-pollinating. So if you avoid hybrid varieties, you’ll be able to grow the same tomato next year from seeds you save this year—even if different varieties were grown close together. That’s not the case with peppers and eggplants. Their flowers can be cross-pollinated by insects, so different varieties of these must be separated by 500 feet for the seeds to be pure.

Saving Seeds for next season

Related articles
  • Pollination (honeybeesapp.wordpress.com)
  • So what’s with heirloom? (growingmagnolia.wordpress.com)

 

Milk and Mildew

18 Monday Nov 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in gardening tips, Organic

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Agriculture, compost, gardening, green tips, Horticulture, milk, Okra, organic, Pests and Diseases, plant, Powdery mildew, Vegetable, vegetable plant


Powdery mildew resembles a light dusting of flour on top of the leaves of the vegetable plant, it is actually caused by a fungus that is airborne. It can occur on just about any vegetable, even some fruits such as sage, tomatoes, beans, watermelons, honeydew, pumpkins and marrows

 

Mildew on Sage

Mildew on Sage

 
What to do?

 


Normal milk will actually control powdery mildew and contains a natural foliar fertilizer, boosting the plant’s immune system in the process. A mixture of at least 10% milk mixed with 90% water will significantly reduce the severity of powdery mildew when sprayed weekly on the infected plant.

 

Powdery mildew, a Biotrophic Fungus

Powdery mildew, a Biotrophic Fungus (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

 

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