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Tag Archives: propagation

June Workshop

30 Monday Jun 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Workshops

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Lavender, mint, oregano, plant propagation, propagation, rosemary, Sage, Satureja montana Winter Savory, Wild Rosemnay, Wildeels, winter savory, workshop


Lynne and Karen learning how to propagate

Lynne and Karin learning how to propagate

cutting of Rosemary, Wild Rosemary, Sage, Mint, Oregano, Lavender and Winter Savory.

cutting of Rosemary, Wild Rosemary, Sage, Mint, Oregano, Lavender and Winter Savory.

The focus in the June workshop was on plant propagation.  This type of propagation is known as slipping or cutting from soft wood. This is an excellent way to multiply your plants. The new plant will be an exact clone of the parent plant.

 

Good luck ladies, I hope to have some feed back from you soon.

There will be no workshop for July.

Bookings are now open for 2 August. Book your place now.

Plant propagation

23 Sunday Feb 2014

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Green tips, Growing, Organic

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

clivia, Cutting (plant), cuttings, division, gardening, layering, nature, plant, propagation, Seed, seeds, vegetative propagation


OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Propagation is the term used to describe the process of plant reproduction. There are two categories of propagation, i.e. seminal and vegetative. Seminal propagation results from sowing seeds. Plants grown from seed are entirely unique and may differ from each other and from the parent plant. Vegetative propagation embraces all other techniques of reproduction such as cutting, grafting and layering and plants propagated in this manner are identical to their parents i.e. they are clones.

Cuttings

The terms softwood, semi-ripe and hardwood are to plant life the equivalent to the stages of infant, teenager and adult life in humans.

Softwood – is taken very early in the growing season, before there is any sign of hardening of the new shoots. They are green, both at the tip and base.

Semi-ripe – is taken at the end of the growing season when the tip of the stem is soft and green, but the base is hardening, going brown and starting to become woody.

Hardwood – is taken in the winter when the stem has become hardened and woody throughout its length.

Other terms used in cutting jargon are heel, stem and tip. These refer to the part of the stem that is being used for the cutting.

Heel cutting – the stem is torn off in a way that retains a portion of the parent branch – a heel – at its base. Heel cuttings are most often made from softwood or semi-ripe wood. They are normally about 3 to 15 cm long.

Stem cuttings – most often used for hardwood cuttings. They normally include 20 to 30 cm of the stem to provide a reservoir of nutrients so that the cutting can survive through the winter until growth begins in spring.

Tip cuttings – short portions 3 to 15cm long taken from the tips of the stems. These parts are used for softwood and semi-ripe cuttings.

The reason for the different types of cuttings is that some species will propagate more readily from a stem cutting than a root cutting. There are, however, many plants that will reproduce from more than one type of cutting.

Cuttings are encouraged to grow roots and to this end they require moisture, light and a clean, free draining soil. A dusting hormone in the form of rooting powder may be used to help cuttings take root. It is advisable to strip most of the leaves from the cutting in order to reduce the amount of moisture lost through transpiration, while the remaining leaves will add to the food reserves through photosynthesis.

Division

This is the quickest way to increase perennials that have a spreading rootstock and produce new shoots annually from the crown. Division is best carried out when the plant is dormant. Lift the parent plants and shake off excess soil from the roots. Separate the plants into sections using a garden fork, a spade or a sharp knife. Ensure that each plant has a good root system. Discard old or damaged pieces and replant the segments at the original depth of soil. Examples of this type of division include Agapanthus, Clivia, Iris, and Shasta Daisy.

Seed

Most seed is best sown as soon as ripe. If necessary, soak fruits in water first, then extract seeds by rubbing the flesh and leave to dry. Hard-coated seeds may need soaking or scarification before germination. Soak in recently boiled water from between 10 minutes to 72 hours, depending on the species. Viable seeds will swell and should be sown immediately in situ or in a tray or seedbed. Soil should be kept moist. Lightly cover the seeds with compost or soil. As a general rule, cover seeds with about their own depth of soil. Mix fine seeds with a little dry river sand, trickle them over the compost and do not cover. Ensure that the seeds are kept moist.

Stored in a dry place most seeds remain good for 2 to 3 years but germination rates gradually decline.

Layering, suckers and grafting

Layering is a simple method for increasing plants with stems that will produce roots if wounded. The stem is pegged into the ground and left to form roots, while still attached to the parent plant.

Suckering plants, such a Tecomaria, Wisteria and Plumbago, naturally produce suckers that may be detached and inserted as ready-rooted plants.

Grafting involves taking the stem of one plant and uniting it with the rootstock of a closely related plant. Roses and fruit trees are propagated in this way. Grafting is best left to the specialists.

Heirloom Tomato – Pink Accordian

24 Friday May 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in gardening tips, Gardens, Organic

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

downtoearthdigs, egg shells, food, Full Moon, garden, Heirloom Tomato, home grown, Lunar Eclipse, organic, Pest control, plants, porcupine, propagation, snails, worm compost


Seeds from USAHeirloom Tomato seeds in the post all the way from Janesville USA.

Today I am dedicating my post to fellow blogger Stacey Weichert of downtoearthdigs

Heirloom tomato 1

Seed tray waiting for the Pink Accordian seeds to be planted.

heirloom tomato 2

The seedlings ready for planting out.

Heirloom tomato 3

The seedlings planted the day before the Full moon with worm compost dug into the soil and  crushed egg shell to keep the snails at bay. You can see that I have over-planted, this is due to lack of space, as all my vegetable beds are raised to prevent the Porcupine from eat my harvest. This Full Moon we will also see a Lunar Eclipse. Here is hoping they grow well and bear much fruit. My taste buds are already watering.

porcupineOur roving porcupine whom we call Schnoof.

 

Related articles

Down to Earth

Seeds from me

Cape Porcupine

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Jalapeno

22 Wednesday May 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in gardening tips, Growing

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

food, garden, Jalapeno, jalapeno pepper, plants, propagation


jalapeno

Browsing through my local super market yesterday I came across these peppers labeled as Jalapeno. The smooth pepper on the left I am familiar with, however the crinkly one on the right I am not. I have searched and searched and not found any  Jalapeno which vaguely resembles this pepper. I am asking all you pepper buffs out there what type of pepper this is.

I plan to save the seeds from both and propagate in the Spring.

-33.982832 18.469360

Johnny Jump ups

26 Friday Apr 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Flowers, gardening tips, Honey Bee

≈ 16 Comments

Tags

Bee, Flowers, gardening, green tips, home grown, Johnny Jump Ups, nature, organic, plants, propagation, Viola


johnny jump ups

I introduced these cheerful little “Johnny Jump Ups” into my garden about 7 years ago. They always return when the time is right and they always seem to “JUMP UP”  year after year. They flower in profusion right through the Winter and finally die down in late Summer.

Viola tricolor, known as heartsease, heart’s ease, heart’s delight, tickle-my-fancy, Jack-jump-up-and-kiss-me, come-and-cuddle-me, three faces in a hood, or love-in-idleness.

They are hermaphrodite and self-fertile, pollinated by bees.

Look around in the nurseries now for these delightful little flowers. They are sold as Violas

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The Golden Chocolate tree – Carob

11 Thursday Apr 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in ecology, Gardens, Growing, Health, Organic

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

24 carat gold, carob trees, Ceratonia siliqua, chocolate tree, food, gardening, home grown, organic, plants, propagation, seed pods, Yad Vashem


carobSome years ago when visiting the Holocaust museum, Yad Vashem  in Jerusalem, my partner noticed that the Carob trees had seed pods and plucked one to bring home to me.

Two trees were successful in germinating, and they are now planted close to each other in Ariston.

I was totally delighted when I noticed one of them flowering last week.

Research :

Carob consumed by humans is the dried (and sometimes roasted) pod, and not the ‘nuts’ or seeds. Carob is mildly sweet and is used in powdered, chip, or syrup form as an ingredient in cakes and cookies, and as a substitute for chocolate.

Ceratonia siliqua, the scientific name of the carob tree, derives from the Greek kerátiοn (κεράτιον), “fruit of the carob” (from keras [κέρας] “horn”), and Latin siliqua “pod, carob.” The term “carat“, the unit by which gem weight is measured, is also derived from the Greek word kerátiοn (κεράτιον), alluding to an ancient practice of weighing gold and gemstones against the seeds of the carob tree by people in the Middle East. The system was eventually standardized, and one carat was fixed at 0.2 grams.

In late Roman times, the pure gold coin known as the solidus weighed 24 carat seeds (about 4.5 grams). As a result, the carat also became a measure of purity for gold. Thus 24-carat gold means 100% pure, 12-carat gold means the alloy contains 50% gold, etc.

Source :http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceratonia_siliqua

 

 

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Pruning Hydrangeas

03 Wednesday Apr 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in gardening tips, Gardens, Green tips, Pruning

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

gardening, green tips, Hydrangeas, propagation, pruning


hydrangea 2Here in South Africa we are coming into our pruning and propagating season.

Flowers that have colored like the ones above are a sign that pruning time is near.

One always prunes Hydrangeas before all the leaves have fallen off.

There are 2 schools of thought about the pruning.

  • If you give the plants a really hard prune, cutting right down to 4 nodes from the base, you will get larger flowers, but fewer flowers.
  • If you give the plants a very light prune leaving behind most of the foliage, cutting to 2 nodes under the flower, you will have many blooms, bit they will be smaller.

Happy pruning and remember to always use sharp cutters.

The cuttings that result from the pruning can be trimmed and placed in good potting soil to propagate more plants.

-33.982832 18.469360

Cape Primrose – Streptocarpus

06 Wednesday Mar 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Flowers, South African Endemic

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

cape primrose, Flowers, garden, george rex, history, nature, plants, propagation, South African endemic plant, Streptocarpus


Streptocarpus

I always know that Autumn is approaching when I see my Streptocarpus start to flower.

They are sometimes called Cape Primrose referring to their nativity to South Africa and semblance to a Primula.

History

The following is an adapted excerpt from the 1906 text “Hortus Veitchii”:[15]

Streptocarpus rexii

The first Streptocarpus to reach British gardens was Streptocarpus Rexii. This species was sent to Kew in 1824 by Mr Bowie, who was His Majesty’s collector in South Africa. The plant was found on the estate of Mr George Rex, after whom it was named. Following Streptocarpus rexii came Streptocarous polyantha from Natal. It was accidentally introduced to Kew in 1853 in material surrounding trunks of tree ferns sent from Natal by Captain Garden. Streptocarpus gardeni, also introduced in 1853 from the same country was named for Captain Garden, who sent seeds to Kew. In 1860, Mr Wilson Saunders sent a specimen to Kew, and it was eventually named Streptocarpus saundersii. In 1882, the caulescent species, Streptocarpus kirkii, was sent to Kew by Sir John Kirk. Streptocarpus caulescens, another caulescent species, followed in 1886. In 1887, “Streptocarpus parviflora” (probably Streptocarpus parviflorus, and referred to hereafter as such) was raised from seed brought in from Grahamstown by Mr Watson of Kew. A similar plant raised from seed by Mr Lynch of the Cambridge Botanic Gardens, was eventually named Streptocarpus lutea. The next plant to be introduced, Streptocarpus dunnii, played an important role in the production of “beautiful hybrids” of the day. In 1884, seed was collected in the mountains of the Transvaal gold fields, and sent to Kew by Mr E. G. Dunn of Claremont, Cape Town. It was a unifoliate species with “rose or salmon red colour”. It first flowered at Kew in 1886. In 1890, Streptocarpus galpini was introduced to Kew by Mr E Galpin, who found it on the “Bearded Man” peak that forms one of the boundaries of Swaziland. Streptocarpus wendlandii was sent in 1887 from Transvaal to Naples to “Messrs Damman” (i.e. two or more men with the last name ‘Damman’ – possibly nurserymen). It first appeared in England at Kew in seed contained in soil attached to tree ferns from South Africa. It flowered at Kew in 1895. A hybrid named “Streptocarpus x Dyeri” was raised at Kew by crossing Streptocarpus wendlandii with Streptocarpus dunii. “Streptocarpus faninii” (not currently listed, could this perhaps be referring to Streptocarpus fanniniae?), is apparently noteworthy because of its contribution to many of the “more beautiful hybrids”. Hortus Veitchii states that the first hybrid Streptocarpus recorded was “Streptocarpus x Greenii”, which was the progeny of S. saundersii and S. rexii. It was raised by Mr Charles Green, who was at the time the gardener to Sir George Mackay of Pendell Court. This specimen was apparently never widely grown and did not contribute to the “present garden race”.
The initial step towards the “beautiful forms” in cultivation at the time was taken by the Curator of Kew. He raised the hybrid “Streptocarpus x Kewensis” by crossing S. rexii and S. dunii. However, he had previously also raised S. parviflorus x S. rexii. A coloured plate of the progeny was published in 1886. In 1887, another Kew-raised hybrid flowered. It was a hybrid of S. parviflorus and S. dunnii, and received the name of S. x Watsoni, after Mr Watson who raised the seed. In 1887, two hybrids (S. x Kewensis and S. x Watsoni) were crossed with each other and their parents in all combinations. A host of progeny resulted with marked differences in colour, size, form and flower, and many were “decidedly attractive”. A selection of these were obtained by Heal, who crossed them with each other and with the red-flowered S. dunii. Many of these are now known as “Veitch’s Original Hybrids”. Breeding continued using these hybrids.

Cultivation

Streptocarpus seed pod, showing spiralling form

Young rosulate Streptocarpus, whole plant

Each grower will have their own preferences for cultivation. The details given below are a tested general guide, but Streptocarpus will do quite well on either side of these optimums.[3]

The two main things to remember when growing Streptocarpus are that they do not like soil that is too wet, and they do not like it too hot.

Soil: Use an ordinary commercial potting mix with 1/8 to 1/4 perlite mixed in. This makes sure the soil will retain some moisture but not get boggy. Always have adequate drainage holes at the bottom of the pot you are planting in.

Temperature: 18°C-25°C (64.4°F-77°F). They can be taken down to 10°C (50°F) or less in winter for a rest.

Light: Medium to bright indirect light is best. However, a bit of morning/late afternoon sun is more than OK. Even in dimmer light, they will flower – but less floriferously.

Water: Water only once the soil is almost dry. Some grower prefer to water only when the leaves have just started to wilt (or just before). They recover very well from dehydration, and is one of the traits of the species. Make sure the pot has holes in the bottom to drain water, and never leave the pots sitting in a saucer of water.

Feeding: Feed occasionally with a “fruit and flower” or general fertiliser.

Seasons: Generally, Streptocarpus will flower from spring to autumn. In winter, they will stop flowering and may lose some leaves, which is normal. However, some varieties flower in winter.

Pruning of leaves & flowers: You may slice off yellowing or browned leaves at the base – these will be the older leaves naturally dying off. If there is a healthy leaf with some blemishing, you can successfully cut off only the blemished parts and trim the leaf to a normal shape. With regards to flowers, snip off individuals as they finish, then snip the whole stem off at the base once the last flower on that stem is spent.

Cut flowers: Streptocarpus flowers are also make excellent cut flowers, especially the long-stemmed varieties. They last well.

Pests and diseases: Streptocarpus are generally pest and disease -free. However, the most common afflictions are aphids and mealy bug. These are easily treatable with commercial insecticides or cultural pest removal methods.

Leaves and abscission: It is common for older leaves to die off occasionally, but especially in winter. They may be snipped off. New leaves will replace them.

The leaves of some perennial, but usually unifoliate Streptocarpus, are unusual because, as winter approaches, they slowly die back to an abscission line (see picture gallery below) midway down the leaf. The end portion of the leaf will gradually die back to this line. In most flowering plants, an abscission line forms at the base of the leaf, and the whole leaf will fall off (e.g. the leaves of deciduous trees like oak).

Propagation

Streptocarpus seedling showing normally rudimentary second cotyledon

Propagation is usually either by seed or leaf cuttings. Some species produce plantlets from the roots,[7] which can be used to propagate the plant. Mature clumps of plants can also be divided up and repotted.

Streptocarpus species seed that has been self pollinated will grow true to type.

Self pollinated hybrid seed will not grow true to type. The only way to propagate hybrid plants and retain the characteristics of the hybrid, is by leaf propagation (or other types of vegetative cloning)

For Streptocarpus subgenus Streptocarpus:

By seed: Streptocarpus seed is generally very fine (see image gallery below). To germinate, the seed must be scattered thinly on top of potting mix, as they require light to germinate. The pot they are sown in must be covered in clear plastic “cling film” to keep up the humidity. Keep the sown seed where it will get bright, indirect light, and remain about 18-20 degrees Celsius. Keep them out of direct sunlight.

By leaf: A Streptocarpus leaf can be severed at the base (but above where flowers arise), and potted, base-down, in a few centimetres of potting mix. Place a clear plastic bag over the pot and secure with a rubber band to keep up the humidity. Streptocarpus leaves have a high concentration of cytokinin (a type of rooting hormone), so the use of artificial rooting hormones is unnecessary.

Leaf segments, cut either horizontally across the leaf, or vertically along the leaf (removing the midrib), can be used as cuttings in much the same way.

For unifoliates, this method is apparently less successful, but not impossible. However, it must be done before the plant flowers.

By root plantlet: Un-pot a plant that you know is susceptible to producing root plantlets (e.g. Streptocarpus johannis, and Streptocarpus ‘Falling Stars’. You will see, once the roots are exposed, whether any plantlets are formed.

Sometimes, these plantlets will be evident growing out of the holes at the bottom of the pot. You can then snip these plantlets off (preferably with their attached roots), and plant up as for leaf propagation above).

By clump division: You can divide a multi-crown clump into pieces (each with a root system), and plant up as for leaf propagation above.

For Streptocarpus subgenus Streptocarpella:

By seed: Streptocarpus seed is generally very fine. To germinate, the seed must be scattered thinly on top of potting mix, as they require light to germinate. The pot they are sown in must be covered in clear plastic “cling film” to keep up the humidity. Keep the sown seed where it will get bright, indirect light, and remain about 18-20 degrees Celsius. Keep them out of direct sunlight.

By stem cuttings: Cuttings of about 5–10 cm can be taken beneath a leaf node. When the cutting is placed in clean water, it will sprout roots. Keep the cuttings in bright, indirect light at about 18-20 degrees Celsius. Once the roots are about 5 cm long, you can pot up the cutting into the soil mixture mentioned above.

Streptocarpus

-33.982832 18.469360

Learning to grow your own workshop 2 March

03 Sunday Mar 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Allotments, gardening tips, Growing, Herbs, Irrigation, Workshops

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

carrots, compost, eggplant, food, growing from food scraps, horseradish, lettuce, marjoram, nature, oregano, pineapple, planting, plants, preparing soil, propagation, rocket, rosemary, spinach, wild garlic, winter savory, workshops, worm castings, worm compost


jo and janine

We had a fabulous workshop yesterday. Jo and Janine arrived full of energy and enthusiasm.

We started by assessing the site in which we were going to garden.

We proceeded to improve the soil with compost made from straw, cow manure and mushroom compost.

We then planted some 2 liter bottles with small holes in the bottle to make sure we have water going down to the roots.

We then look around for plants we could propagate to plant . Rosemary,  wild garlic ( our companion plant), horseradish, winter savory, oregano and marjoram were chosen.

The worm farm was harvested for worm compost. Oh my word the girls just fell in love with the worms.

We then planted using the worm compost.

Seeds that were chosen to sow were : carrots, spinach, eggplant and lettuce. the carrots were sown directly into the ground, the others were planted up in seed trays which Jo has taken home to nurture until they are ready to be planted out.

Our piece of resistance for the day was planting a pineapple from food scraps.

We finished the bed by mulching with leaves and compost again and a thorough watering.

We all left thoroughly dirty and tired but thoroughly satisfied.

Book now for the next workshop in April

https://aristonorganic.wordpress.com/workshops-for-2013/

email aristonorganic@gmail.com

-33.982832 18.469360

Plant propagation

06 Sunday Jan 2013

Posted by Brigid Jackson in Green tips, Growing, Organic

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

clivia, Cutting (plant), cuttings, division, gardening, layering, nature, plant, propagation, Seed, seeds, vegetative propagation


OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Propagation is the term used to describe the process of plant reproduction. There are two categories of propagation, i.e. seminal and vegetative. Seminal propagation results from sowing seeds. Plants grown from seed are entirely unique and may differ from each other and from the parent plant. Vegetative propagation embraces all other techniques of reproduction such as cutting, grafting and layering and plants propagated in this manner are identical to their parents i.e. they are clones.

Cuttings

The terms softwood, semi-ripe and hardwood are to plant life the equivalent to the stages of infant, teenager and adult life in humans.

Softwood – is taken very early in the growing season, before there is any sign of hardening of the new shoots. They are green, both at the tip and base.

Semi-ripe – is taken at the end of the growing season when the tip of the stem is soft and green, but the base is hardening, going brown and starting to become woody.

Hardwood – is taken in the winter when the stem has become hardened and woody throughout its length.

Other terms used in cutting jargon are heel, stem and tip. These refer to the part of the stem that is being used for the cutting.

Heel cutting – the stem is torn off in a way that retains a portion of the parent branch – a heel – at its base. Heel cuttings are most often made from softwood or semi-ripe wood. They are normally about 3 to 15 cm long.

Stem cuttings – most often used for hardwood cuttings. They normally include 20 to 30 cm of the stem to provide a reservoir of nutrients so that the cutting can survive through the winter until growth begins in spring.

Tip cuttings – short portions 3 to 15cm long taken from the tips of the stems. These parts are used for softwood and semi-ripe cuttings.

The reason for the different types of cuttings is that some species will propagate more readily from a stem cutting than a root cutting. There are, however, many plants that will reproduce from more than one type of cutting.

Cuttings are encouraged to grow roots and to this end they require moisture, light and a clean, free draining soil. A dusting hormone in the form of rooting powder may be used to help cuttings take root. It is advisable to strip most of the leaves from the cutting in order to reduce the amount of moisture lost through transpiration, while the remaining leaves will add to the food reserves through photosynthesis.

Division

This is the quickest way to increase perennials that have a spreading rootstock and produce new shoots annually from the crown. Division is best carried out when the plant is dormant. Lift the parent plants and shake off excess soil from the roots. Separate the plants into sections using a garden fork, a spade or a sharp knife. Ensure that each plant has a good root system. Discard old or damaged pieces and replant the segments at the original depth of soil. Examples of this type of division include Agapanthus, Clivia, Iris, and Shasta Daisy.

Seed

Most seed is best sown as soon as ripe. If necessary, soak fruits in water first, then extract seeds by rubbing the flesh and leave to dry. Hard-coated seeds may need soaking or scarification before germination. Soak in recently boiled water from between 10 minutes to 72 hours, depending on the species. Viable seeds will swell and should be sown immediately in situ or in a tray or seedbed. Soil should be kept moist. Lightly cover the seeds with compost or soil. As a general rule, cover seeds with about their own depth of soil. Mix fine seeds with a little dry river sand, trickle them over the compost and do not cover. Ensure that the seeds are kept moist.

Stored in a dry place most seeds remain good for 2 to 3 years but germination rates gradually decline.

Layering, suckers and grafting

Layering is a simple method for increasing plants with stems that will produce roots if wounded. The stem is pegged into the ground and left to form roots, while still attached to the parent plant.

Suckering plants, such a Tecomaria, Wisteria and Plumbago, naturally produce suckers that may be detached and inserted as ready-rooted plants.

Grafting involves taking the stem of one plant and uniting it with the rootstock of a closely related plant. Roses and fruit trees are propagated in this way. Grafting is best left to the specialists.

 

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